This is the latest in a series of reports on the “Restoring the Journey” trip that brought US tourism leaders to Egypt and Jordan to experience safety conditions firsthand. I traveled with the delegation, which was sponsored by local tourism ministries.
Political signs, protesters and perhaps an overturned car. That’s what I was expecting to find in Cairo’s Tahrir Square, the center of the Egyptian revolution, during a visit last Sunday.
When I stepped off the bus, I searched for signs of unrest. Aside from a few burned-out buildings, there was no indication that a million Egyptians had gathered in this spot and brought about a revolution.
Tahrir Square was downright peaceful last weekend– an oasis of flowers and greenery in the heart of Cairo.
Tahrir Square on Sunday, April 24, 2011. (Photo: Leslie Koch)
Expecting chaos
Prior to visiting Egypt, my knowledge of Tahrir Square came from news reports. The key takeaways from the media coverage in the US:
- Starting on January 25, it was the scene of violent clashes between demonstrators, police and the military
- Several foreign reporters were assaulted here
- Pro-Mubarak agents on camels attacked the crowd
Once president Hosni Mubarak was ousted from power on Febraury 11, Tahrir Square seemed to fade from the news. I hadn’t seen any recent images of the square and assumed it would look like a war zone.
Peaceful park
Tahrir Square on Saturday, April 23, 2011. (Photo: Leslie Koch)
My first glimpse of Tahrir Square came on Saturday, when our delegation of US tourism leaders was making its way from the Cairo airport to the Four Seasons hotel. We were in town to meet with Egyptian tourism officials and to investigate safety conditions for American travelers.
When I looked out the tour bus window, I saw dozens of Egyptians walking through the square. It was a warm, sunny day and they were enjoying a stroll with their friends and families. I didn’t spot a single political sign or protester.
It reminded me of Central Park in the spring (albeit a much smaller version).
No safety concerns
The US tourism delegation with guide Mina Mamdouh Edwar at Tahrir Square on Sunday, April 24, 2011. (Photo: Leslie Koch)
When we arrived at Tahrir Square on Sunday, April 24, tour guide Mina Mamdouh Edwar briefed our group on the 2011 Egyptian revolution. Our cameras and iPhones were out, and we began snapping photos of the landmark.
Since it was Easter Sunday (part of a holiday weekend in Egypt), traffic was light and we didn’t see many people on the square. We walked around the neighborhood with cameras out, not giving a second thought to safety.
A private security guard accompanied us on the tour bus. Mustachioed and clad in a brown suit, he was clearly wearing a gun underneath his jacket. It’s standard procedure for tour groups in Egypt to have a guard, we were told. He stayed by the bus throughout our visit to Tahrir Square.
It’s worth noting that the previous day I walked around Cairo’s riverfront with fellow travelers– without a guard– and felt entirely safe.
Update 9/10/11: As the political situation in Egypt continues to evolve, make sure to check the State Department website for country-specific information before booking your vacation.
Tourist attraction
I posed with Marie-Rose Lohier of Academic Travel Abroad in Tahrir Square on Sunday, April 24, 2011. (Photo: Leslie Koch)
Essentially a traffic circle, Tahrir Square is a short walk from the Egyptian Museum, the US Embassy and the American University in Cairo. Our group posed for photos on the lawn, which had been re-sodded the prior week.
Tahrir Square is being developed as a tourist attraction, we learned during meetings with Egyptian officials. While there are no concrete plans for the site, possible attractions include a revolution-themed museum and a photo gallery.
Police presence
Police in Tahrir Square on Sunday, April 24, 2011. (Photo: Leslie Koch)
During our morning visit to Tahrir Square, a number of police officers in white uniforms appeared near the tour bus and spoke to our security guard.
Later that day at a meeting with Ambassador Margaret Scobey, we learned that the Egyptian police have gradually returned to their posts following the revolution.
According to the ambassador, the police have gone to “charm school” and are trying to improve their image.
Remnants of revolution
Burned building near Tahrir Square on Sunday, April 24, 2011. (Photo: Leslie Koch)
While Tahrir Square was peaceful on Sunday, there were a few remnants of the revolution that gripped Cairo in January and February. Several buildings in the area were burned, including Mubarak’s National Democratic Party headquarters.
Building with broken windows in Tahrir Square on Sunday, April 24, 2011. (Photo: Leslie Koch)
Graffiti was splashed across the side of a building near the square. The message read, “Enjoy the revolution.”
The KFC in Tahrir Square on Sunday, April 24, 2011. (Photo: Leslie Koch)
While standing in the traffic circle, I spotted the Kentucky Fried Chicken mentioned in news reports. During the revolution, the fast food restaurant served as a makeshift medical clinic. It was closed when we visited, presumably for the holiday weekend.
National pride
The Egyptians we met took pride in the revolution and were eager to have tourists return. After speaking to locals, we discovered that the tidy appearance of Tahrir Square is no accident. Ordinary Egyptians cleaned up the area after the protests.
Egyptians clean up Tahrir Square after the revolution. (Photo: Sierragoddess/Flickr)
The day after our Tahrir Square visit we met a female guide, Radwa Tarek Ahmed, who helped clean up the square.
At her fiance’s request, Radwa did not attend the demonstrations but she joined the community cleanup after Mubarak was removed from office.
On February 12, Egyptians came to the square with dust pans, brooms and trash bags; some wore signs reading, “Sorry for Disturbance. We build Egypt.”
For more info
Click here for additional blog posts on the “Restoring the Journey” trip to Egypt and Jordan. Follow us on Twitter and Facebook for photos and videos of the trip, and look for the hashtag #SafeME on Twitter.
View Larger Map
Google Map of Tahrir Square.
I stayed in a hotel by Tahrir Square in 2008. It’s sad to see the destruction, but at least things are relatively peaceful now.
Thanks for the comment, Sarah! I was surprised how little physical destruction there was in the square, considering it was the focal point of a revolution that toppled the government. There appeared to be no damage at all to the nearby Egyptian Museum. It would be interesting to see how the area has changed since 2008.
I always find it interesting to visit places that have been in the headlines – if you can remember the history (recent or old) of the place it makes it that much more meaningful
Definitely. Especially when the events were so recent and on such a large scale (a revolution)!
It looks like all is quiet on the Tahrir Square front.
It’s great to see things look relatively normal there and peaceful. It says a lot that the citizens cleaned up the place after the protests.
Totally. There is clearly a lot of national pride in Egypt right now!
It’s good to see the local people clean up after the protests. I imagine the tourism board also made sure the place was “respectable” before having people visit.
I have no doubt Egypt is safe to travel, even for independent travelers not on a tour bus.
It’s also good to see the Egyptian tourism board take a proactive approach by inviting people such as yourself to visit the city!
The Egyptian government is eager to bring tourism back. The economy is hurting right now, and tourism is a main source of employment and revenue.
Great recap of your visit to Tahrir Square. I too, would have expected to see much more devastation than apparent in your photos above. You really brought this historical place to life for me with your pics and story. Thank you for making it real!
It was amazing standing on the very spot where the revolution happened. When we visited, the square looked very different from the images I’d seen on TV. (For started, it had 1 million fewer people!)
Good sums up for the visit Leslie. You were standing on a history! It’s quite odd to say ‘safe’ after what happened yesterday but it’s good to know they are concentrating to create safe environment for travelers.
I’m not sure what effect Bin Laden’s death will have on travel to Egypt and other destinations. the US State Dept issued a vague “world wide” travel alert that seems useless. It doesn’t even name any specific countries or regions!
Yes, yes, yes!!! Thanks for publishing this, again. The problem is that the only images of Cairo broadcasted by the news are still the ones of the Revolution, so no one knows that Tahrir looks like this now. It’s all safe and quiet 🙂
Sometimes on Fridays there are demonstrations but they are all pacific ones. I have been to one last Friday and took some videos-will post soon. It was a rather funny experience and felt totally safe.
Concerning Bin Laden’s death and possible effects, well, I’d be much more scared in the States than here…
Wow, those burned buildings are an eye opener! Amazed to see the damage there but glad that peace is on the way now.
I wonder if there has been any unrest/uneasiness for travelers since bin Laden’s death?
Love your visit of Tahrir Square, Despite all the bad media coverage from before. Glad you enjoy it.